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Travel: Unpublished Journals: India

 

First Four Days in India
April 7 - 10, 2007

Day 1: April 7, 2007
When I finally arrive in Calcutta (about five hours later than expected), I’m met outside the airport by a man from the TEFL International staff who is rather disgruntled after waiting more than four hours due to my cancelled flight. I’ve slept about four hours in the past two and a half days so I'm not feeling particularly sympathetic--especially because I had no way to contact him from Delhi to tell him of the rescheduling. While I wipe sweat from my forehead and fend off a crush of taxi drivers and baggage carriers, he retrieves the company’s silver Land Cruiser, its seats still covered in dealership plastic. And then we take an indelible drive through the crowded streets of Calcutta, a voyage that changed my life in ways that will take a long time to describe - but that I will eventually attempt to depict in future emails. Naked children bathing on the sidewalk, cars, buses, bikes, and pedestrians battling for momentary control of the road, and a riot of sounds and smells - mostly festering shit or rotting garbage. In some general way the poverty I've witnessed, and the landscape itself, reminds me of Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. Picture opportunities are endless but we’re never stuck in traffic long enough for me to frame any images.

The driver leaves me in the lobby of Glen Tower and tells me in broken English that someone will be along to help me in 5 or 10 minutes. The 10 minutes turns into 20 and then an hour so I try to stretch out on a black vinyl sofa. But the random beep of a nearby air conditioner prevents me from sleeping. Ninety minutes later, I put on my black high tops and approach a guard behind a desk to ask for a bathroom. “First floor,” he points and, unable to locate a staircase, I ride the elevator there. “Another country without toilet paper” I mumble absently after I enter the blindingly white, austere bathroom. But my main goal is to brush my teeth—a task I must complete without drinking the local water. I reach into my backpack for an almost empty bottle of mineral water which I pour over my toothbrush as a janitor enters to clean the floor . Back on the lobby couch, five more minutes pass before I notice a man sitting next to me, sorting through a folded paper list of the trainees and trying to determine what apartment I’ll be living in for the next four weeks. There are two ‘Jo-els’ in your apartment,” he tells me without introducing himself. We he opens his mouth again, I notice a shocking collection of crooked, stained, or missing teeth. And before I have a chance to tell him that my name is actually “Joel” and not “Jo-el” he dials his cellphone and begins to converse in Bengali. He shouts to make himself heard and then hands the phone to me. “My last name is Hanson” I clarify for the English-speaking woman on the other end of the line who also doesn’t bother to introduce herself. The most pressing problem resolved, my unnamed guide stands up and motions for me to follow him. I hand him my rolling suitcase and then hoist my heavy duffel bag, backpack, and hammered dulcimer onto my shoulders and follow him over a quarter mile to my apartment in Bay Tower.

When we reach my apartment on the 12th floor, I’m drenched in sweat. When I enter, my roommate Victoria is standing in the white-tiled, white-walled room as though she’s not sure what she’s supposed to be doing there. She has long red hair and is dressed in a lacy but conservative white top which she confesses she’s been wearing for the past couple of days because some airline lost her baggage. “I’m glad you’re here,” she says shortly after we’ve introduced ourselves. “I’ve been sleeping most of the day and need someone to talk to.”

After the apartment caretaker departs, we take inventory of the barren and untidy apartment. Spider webs line the cupboards and piles of dust are collecting in the corners of the living room. The previous occupants, who I deduce are from the States (from an address label found on an abandoned cardboard box), in addition to never cleaning the place, were probably diabetics or hard-core drug users based on the stash of unopened syringes we find on top of a kitchen cupboard. The apartment has an electric tea kettle, toaster, and refrigerator but no stove, oven, or hot plate for cooking. There are three plates, three laughably tiny tea cups, a couple of rusty forks and spoons and two cloudy, water-stained glasses.

Victoria and I make a quick list of essentials—towels, a shower curtain, toilet paper, knives, bowls—and stroll over to Big Bazaar, a massive, multi-floored shopping mall, to see what we can find. In my sleep-deprived stupor, I hesitate at the entrance, take one look into the noisy, crowded supermarket and confess to Victoria: “I’m not sure if I can do this.” But we forge ahead anyway through the narrow aisles, jostled like sheep in a pen, a plastic basket in my hands. The supermarket feels like one giant chaotic auction house, amplified voices competing for our attention with screeching offers of: “Fifty percent off” and “Buy one get one free!” despite clearly marked signs advertising identical offers. My claustrophobia flares as I struggle through the crowd, most of whom are wearing traditional orange-colored India saris, basket raised over my head, realizing in a panic that it’ll take us at least five minutes to reach the market on the second floor. Victoria is standing less than three feet in front of me yelling things like: “Do you need any soap?” and finally I burst out laughing at the complete futility of trying to speak over the din, which makes it easier to maintain my composure while we try to locate what we’re looking for.

Day 2: April 8, 2007
At 4 pm, Victoria and I descend from our 12th-floor apartment and walk past a forest of 30-story apartment buildings (that constitute the Hiland Park apartment complex) over to Glen Tower for our initial orientation meeting on the 8th floor. Erin, from Vancouver, Emma from Oxford, and Christina, from Detroit are already waiting in the lobby. The air conditioner isn’t functioning—or the power’s been cut again—so sweat begins to crawl across our bodies. We introduce ourselves while we wait for Aradhna, our teacher trainer, to arrive. The most amusing aspect of our discussion: Erin’s refusal to work in any Middle Eastern country whose government she doesn’t support. “Is there any government in the Middle East you do support?” I ask her. “Maybe Jordan,” she replies. I’m surprised at her naivete but I don’t want to spar over politics just yet. So offer this: “But they’re a US ally in the Iraq war and are also part of the US rendition program of torturing suspects” and then silently reflect: “Is there a government anywhere that deserves our support?” Even in so-called democracies, you’ll almost always find an oligarchy of government officials out of step with the will of the people. The US is perhaps the best example.

Aradhna is dressed in an ornate Indian dress and scarf that she keeps tossing over her right shoulder like a long-haired blond rearranging her hair behind her ear. She has shoulder-length black hair cut in a bob and wise, entrancing eyes. She is kind and welcoming but I find her obvious disorganization one part endearing and one part unsettling. She’s been part of the Kolkata program for only 13 months and it shows. But is she nervous on her first day of a new session or is TEFL International—the umbrella organization—supplying her with partial or incorrect information? Time will tell. But first impressions are everything to a student. An important part of any teacher’s job is to convince her students, especially on the first day of class, that she: 1) is organized 2) knows her subject matter and 3) will be able to assist them in their language learning. Aradhna fails on two of the three counts and I, like the most skeptical student, begin to question her value as an instructor.

Initially, she is unsure of the meeting location and knocks on a random tenant’s door. He answers and is surprised to see 10 people waiting outside as though early arrivals at a party. Realizing her mistake, she returns to the door of two fellow TEFL participants: a Bostonian named Victor and Kendra, who’s from Kingston a small town in New Hampshire less than five minutes from Victoria’s hometown of Hampstead. Aradhna rings the bell and we’re greeted with a demented, off-key doorbell tone—like an ice cream seller peddling his wares in hell—but no response. Aradhna appears flustered so I rap loudly on the thin, wooden door and Victor opens it 20 seconds later. They’ve both been sleeping off jetlag and are surprised to discover the meeting is at 4 pm and even more surprised to learn that it’s in their apartment.

“It’s a little warm in here,” Victor motions us into the room, his voice drowned out by the roar of two overhead fans blowing hot air around the barren, white-walled room. We arrange ourselves in a semi-circle while Aradhna opens two windows, turns off the fans, and positions her chair in front of a TV—the only object in the room besides a floor-level mattress/bedframe and a table. Her soft, rapid-fire Indian-accented syllables are lost in the echoes of the room but we eventually adjust to her accent and the apartment’s terrible acoustics.

The meeting has two principal objectives: familiarize us with the rules of our apartment complex and TEFL program and respond to our initial questions. No real surprises among the page-long list except that there is a strict no drinking policy and no guests are allowed in our rooms without prior permission of the administration. While explaining the rules, Aradhna spices up the meeting with anecdotal tales of previous occupants: one who acquired a horrible skin disease with hatched larvae swimming freely underneath his skin, another who didn’t show up for class and was found huddled in the center of his room, white as a ghost and shivering from an advanced fever. “Maybe you shouldn’t tell us this,” I interrupt as Aradhna pauses in the middle of a tale and a few of the others laugh.

As expected, previous classes have been peppered (seasoned?) with a fair share of lost souls with drug habits or a potentially promiscuous woman from Kazakhstan who would return at odd hours of the night with men she’d just met during her frequent excursions on the town. Aradhna confesses that she’s concerned about our safety: thus, we should avoid: 1) street food for the first few weeks, 2) anything that is not cooked on site while we watch, and 3) returning to the apartment late at night when our conspicuous presence makes us ripe for street crime. “You’re completely safe as long as you don’t go past Big Bazaar,” Aradhna assures us, referring to a shopping mall that’s about 400 yards from our apartment. I know that India is not particularly unsafe, but Aradhna’s opinions are merely based on the frequent infractions of the rules that have occurred during her short tenure here.

As she speaks, I turn to look at the faces of the trainees. Most of them are inscrutable. That is, it’s difficult to discern whether their absent looks are caused by jetlag, fear, a burgeoning sense of alienation or all of the above. But most of these potential teachers are brand new, except for Erin who completed a year contract in Taiwan before enrolling in the program, and none of us are completely sure what lies ahead. Fear of the unknown is natural. Nevertheless, I want to put my arm around each of them and assure them they’ll all be fine even if being a teacher turns into something more intricate and challenging than they expected. It always does.

The meeting breaks up—or breaks down—with a series of personal questions and whispering among the trainees. Once Aradhna dismisses us, I take a moment to ask her about subjects as diverse as the price of fruit and directions to the city. Autos (or tuk tuks as they’re called in Thailand) are the cheapest way to go. It costs 10 rupees for two separate rides (about 25 cents) Aradhna explains as she draws a map that describes another small portion of Calcutta proper, the world outside our apartment complex which I’m increasingly curious about but won’t be able to explore until next Friday’s class lets out at 4:45 pm. Then, Aradhna confesses that there’s a single metro line running through the center of the city and a stop that’s reachable by taxi. But without a detailed map of the city, which shows me where we’re located, these are just abstractions to me. We’ll meet tomorrow at 9 am in front of Glen Tower for a short taxi ride to our first training class.

From my bathroom window 12 floors above the city, I hear the sounds of suburban Calcutta and think of Camus’ The Stranger, a book I finally read in French with a Moroccan friend’s patient assistance. At the end of the book, Mersault is saddened by the distant sounds of the world outside his prison window, a painful reminder of his unalterable imprisonment. I listen to car horns, the shouts of people, a bewitching tune of tablas and Indian vocals—a city alive with activity—and feel an innocuous but similar feeling of confinement, of potential pleasure deferred. Then, I’m reminded of the apartment’s large, rectangular pool beckoning from 12 floors below that we’re not allowed to use. For the next three and a half weeks, I will live in a gated community isolated from the most enticing aspects of the city—the startling poverty and beauty of its gritty street life—with a time-consuming schedule the only obstacle preventing me from venturing out into it. My camera rests impatiently in my backpack for the upcoming weekend.

Day 3: April 9, 2007
Victoria and I meet the rest of the TEFL trainees at 9 am in front of Glen Tower. The company minivan, which seats nine, must take the 12 of us in two separate shifts. Victoria and I take the first ride, bobbing up and down in the back seat like sacks of groceries as our driver weaves his way through India’s legendarily chaotic traffic. The narrow, predominantly unmarked roads were never designed for this volume of traffic so most drivers create their own lanes while bicyclists and motor scooters weave in between cars, rickshaws, and buses. But why is everyone in such a hurry? Is it a sense of genuine urgency or claustrophobia from the crowded roads that governs their decision-making? Bald-headed Rohit, who is from Australia but living in Bangalore, carefully observes the traffic from the front passenger seat and announces: “It took me six months to unlearn all the driving laws I learned in Australia.” And after a pause: “But if you can drive in India, you can drive anywhere.” Arandha, sitting next to him offers more practical advice, “Try to pay attention so you’ll know the way if you ever miss the bus and have to take a taxi.” But the driver makes endless twists and turns, as though negotiating a giant labyrinth, and I can only see clearly out the back window. For a large part of the 15-minute ride, the view is blocked by tuk tuks and small cars tailgating dangerously behind us and blaring their horns, waiting for their chance to venture out into oncoming traffic just to advance one car-length ahead of their present position.

We stop short of a blue gate and a fading painted sign on concrete that reads: TEFL International. We remove our shoes and place them on a metal rack next to the front door, which prompts Rohit to joke: “The best place to look for new shoes is outside a Japanese restaurant.” The yellow-walled, blue-floored center is small but immaculate, except for some water on the bathroom floor left over from a recent cleaning. We walk past the bathroom and settle ourselves in the training room: a small area with three long tables arranged in a C shape, a blackboard, four white cube-like cupboards, a new air conditioner and spinning overhead fans. Before class begins, we meet the program director Sanjib, who welcomes us and then delivers some unexpected news about our future job prospects. Instead of immediate and guaranteed job placement in India—the most enticing aspect of the 21-week Cultural Extremes program I paid for, Sanjib informs us of some short-term employment opportunities in neighboring Thailand and then asks us what we intend to do after we finish our training. He also informs us that beyond a simple four-week extension, we cannot renew our tourist visa except by leaving the country, buying another visa and returning to the country even though we were assured in a recent email that it would be easy to extend our existing visas. Sanjib is therefore surprised to learn that most of our visas expire in mid-August, negating the opportunity to take the guaranteed four-month position in India guaranteed in the program description. The existing positions in Thailand begin 10 days after the TEFL class ends so we’ll have to make decisions quickly, update our resumes and hand them off to Sanjib to forward on our behalf when we should be devoting our energies to the rigorous four-week course ahead of us. He then hands us over to our trainer, Sangeeta, and spends part of the morning trying to locate Victoria’s luggage which was lost somewhere between Philadelphia and Frankfurt.

Sangeeta’s delivery is a little more severe than her co-worker Aradhna, even when she’s cracking a joke. She clearly seeks to assure us of her competence and demands our immediate respect. She acquires both within the first 20-minute icebreaker lesson. We stand in a semi-circle and do a memorization exercise that entails repeating the name, a word or two associated with the name, and hometown of all 12 trainees (e.g. Kendra, all-knowing, Boston). As we learn, an 18-year-old boy enters the classroom with steaming cups of Indian tea, which he sets down in front of our desks and then retreats to the teacher’s office. “You will receive two cups each day,” Sangeeta explains. “But don’t ask for a third.” Is that a joke? None of us can tell. Fortunately, the day’s lesson, which outlines some useful communicative activities, are 90 percent familiar to me so I have time left over to think about my suddenly uncertain job future in India. The problem, as I see it, stems from one central area: miscommunication. I signed up for the TEFL class and placement program through a company called Cultural Extremes and communicated exclusively with a woman named Nancy while others dealt exclusively with TEFL International and Sanjib. These programs offer different packages and obviously don’t communicate very well with each other.

As we leave the class, a bag dropped off by Lufthansa is waiting for Victoria. Unfortunately, it bears no resemblance to her well-marked suitcase the airline lost five days earlier. She gives Sanjib as much flight information as she can remember and he promises to continue assisting her. But it’s obvious that dealing with the stress of taking a new course in a new country while fighting with an indifferent airline over her missing essentials is tearing at her affable, even-keeled demeanor. When I finally have a chance to speak to Sanjib, he listens to my complaints but offers no apology, assuming that I’ve somehow misunderstood the program offerings. So in the course of five minutes, I abandon my initial expectations and listen carefully as he gives me three immediate options: 1) take a 45-day summer camp job in Thailand teaching 5-12 year olds and then return to India at the end of June for a longer position somewhere in the country, 2) take a five-month position in Thailand that also begins on May 14, or 3) take a three-month position in India ending in mid-August that he hasn’t found for me yet. I want to remain in India, where the salary is generally poor, but my funds are getting low so I may have to accept one of the jobs in Thailand, where the pay is considerably higher, but then pay for a flight and another visa should I choose to return to India. I’ll have to make a decision about one of them in the next 48 hours.

Emma, Erin, and Pamela help Victoria call the airline and search for new clothes in Big Bazaar while I return to my apartment to begin the night’s homework. Victoria finally returns with a few plastic bags of clothes and a sour look on her face. She then bursts into tears while explaining her concerns about money and her uncertain future in India. Beyond a clichéd but true platitude that things will eventually work themselves out, I can’t think of anything to say. “Do you need a hug?” I finally ask and she accepts. I do my best to calm her down and she retreats to the kitchen to make tea. I assure her that we’ll all in similar positions of uncertainty. But how can she concentrate on class when her irreplaceable belongings remain lost in the airline ether? Below are my responses to the first night’s homework, written in our TEFL International training portfolio.

Language Learner’s Autobiography
1) What language learning experience have you had and how successful have they been? What are your criteria for judging success?

Over the past 15-20 years, I’ve made sporadic efforts to acquire and master French, first in high school and college courses and then by taking a class at the Institute Francais in Casablanca a few years ago. The classes were many years apart, but the methods were disappointingly the same: the teacher typically dominated the language production process and the students primarily listened and took notes. A majority of the question/answer process was teacher to student instead of student to student. While learning was often contextual (e.g. this is what you say when you’re at the post office and need to mail a letter) I never felt I was given the proper tools to learn the language (i.e. question and answer making through interactive classroom activities) nor materials to self-teach when out of the classroom (i.e. surveys, flashcards, information gaps, etc). Increased ability to spontaneously produce the language and increased confidence are my criteria of a successful class.

2) What can be learned about effective and ineffective teaching from your autobiography?

I wasn’t able to differentiate between effective and ineffective teaching methods until taking the IF course in 2004 while teaching classes of my own at the nearby American Language Center. I just felt frustrated by my slow progress in French. Then, I discovered the communicative approach to teaching and began to realize what I’d been missing. No student wants to pay money to listen to a native—or fluent—speaker lecture us or tell amusing anecdotes in the language we’re trying to learn. We want to develop skills and confidence ourselves through a variety of activities that keep us creatively and emotionally interested and leave us excited to practice the language outside of class.

3) How does your experience as a language learner influence you as a language teacher?

Essentially, I teach the way that I learn best which is primarily to emphasize in-class speaking and listening through pair work and group work activities. My philosophy is that students should learn their second language in a similar manner to how they learned their first: by listening, practicing, and performing in an enjoyable and safe environment. When a lesson goes poorly, my first reaction is to look inward and self-evaluate. I try to assess what I might have done differently or seek out other veteran teachers for advice and input. And sometimes, the things I’ve vowed to avoid—too much teacher talk, inadequate modeling—are responsible. Thus, I’ve derived some value from my dissatisfying experiences as a language learner because I feel they’ve made me a more effective instructor.

Foreign Language Journal

Sangeeta attempted to teach us some basic introductory conversation in Setswana. She modeled a two-person dialog by 1) showing us visual aids for each part of the conversation 2) performing both roles several times 3) then turning to the trainees to respond to her questions or supply the correct question. She then wrote the dialog on the board (with trainee assistance), put us into two lines (one stationary and the other moving one partner to the right at her command) and gave us time to practice with 4-5 different partners.

I was able to respond to short question and answer repetition but failed to remember and use the entire conversation. I found it a bit stressful because I needed to hear the conversational model repeated a few more times and I also wanted to alter the approach (see The Process). I participated actively but had trouble reading the board, remembering the proper pronunciation, and hearing my partner. Other students coped by moving closer together and trying to get as much practice in before moving to the next partner.

Direct Teaching: The Process
What are your reactions to the direct-teaching style? Was the language appropriate and learnable in the time available? How did you try to acquire/learn the language modeled? Were you successful? How might you try to improve your “learning strategies”?


The direct-teaching style is an effective method of language acquisition. But our particular lesson of learning basic introductory questions in Setswana seemed more geared toward complete beginners and might need some modification if applied to higher levels.

I didn’t feel the language was learnable in the allotted time but feel certain that Sangeeta partially intended for us to experience the anxiety students feel when they first encounter a new language. In order to complete the task, I eventually concentrated on memorizing a couple lines of dialog before moving on to additional lines. Having used this method in my own classes, I would have given each student a copy of the dialog (so we didn’t have to rely on the blackboard, which was difficult to read), assigned each row one role only and limited each student’s lines to 3-4, instead of 6-8. I also would have instructed the students to read each line silently, make eye contact with h/her partner before delivering it. This greatly increases the memorization process and encourages a more natural use of the language.

The Language

What difficult sounds are there [in Setswana], which do not appear in your own first language? Is there any difference in the rhythm, stress or intonation? What grammatical features have you noticed? What is the writing system like?

R sounds following S sounds are difficult for an native English speaker to pronounce. Questions changed based on whether one was addressing a male or female. The grammar seems to rely on one simple present tense to convey both present and future tenses in English. Sentence structure is the exact opposite of English grammar. For example, the question word always comes at the end of the sentence instead of the beginning (e.g. “You go where?” instead of “Where are you going?” I found that sentence intonation was more musical than English intonation. The writing we saw on the board, although using the same English alphabet, is pronounced differently—which also made the acquisition process more difficult.

Day 4: April 10, 2007
Twenty-four hours later, my job crisis has been solved with an employment offer that fell into my lap while talking to a fellow trainee named Alminar. As of May 14, I will be a teacher trainer for TEFL International—like Arandha and Sangeeta—in the seaside town of Cochin, located on the southwestern coast of India, the next natural step in my evolving teaching career. All that’s left to do is negotiate my salary and living conditions.

After three days as roommates, Victoria and I feel like old friends. But our obvious ease with one another has been misconstrued by a couple of the other trainees as signs of a budding romance. And, as Victoria pointed out, I’ve inadvertently fueled the rumors with a few random responses to in-class activities. During the first, Victoria and I were paired up and had to write a commercial jingle with one of two objects in front of us: a toy car or a plastic box of thumbtacks. We opted for the second. V’s job was to sing the line “Thumbtacks” while I supplied a rhyme like: “they’ll hurt you, that’s a fact, Jack.” Time was limited so we wrote down whatever we could think and, for some reason, “Thumbtacks: a great way to get your wife back,” popped into my head. When it came time to sing the line, I got down on one knee if front of Victoria as though offering her thumbtacks and relationship reconciliation in the same gesture.

For the second activity, I was paired up with Pamela and we were asked to write three sentences about what we did last weekend. Pamela began with: “I packed my bags.” I responded with: “I left my wife,” and Pamela, laughing, finished with: “I met someone new”—all three lines written in my easily recognizable script. Sangeeta collected the papers, randomly redistributed them, and handed our sentences to Victoria and Sheila. The point of the exercise was to give a potential student something to talk about in the past tense that the teacher would exploit with follow-up questions. But Sheila was far more interested in the implications of my sentences: “Did Joel leave his wife?” she asked conspiratorially to Victoria, who laughed and responded: “Sheila, Joel’s never been married.” Now Sanjib and Alminar have decided to send Victoria down to Kochi to work with children in a school near the TEFL International center where I’ll be training non-native speakers in the fine art of communicative teaching. Was this decision made in light of Victoria’s obvious talents teaching children or as a response to the perceived rumors of a relationship between us? Who cares? We both agree it will be nice to have an old friend in a new city.

I have tried to be a stabilizing force in this predominantly young group of friendly but volatile personalities. Due to my extensive teaching experience, I expected to be assisting fellow trainees with some of the more difficult aspects of teaching: developing ideas, lesson plans, improving classroom performance and self-confidence. But I’ve been dealing far more with the personal problems of teachers adjusting to life in a new country. Each day a new personal crisis emerges and the other teachers respond like family to help resolve it.

This time, it’s Erin’s turn. Like me, she also mistakenly thought TEFL International would guarantee her a four-month position after the program ended. But unlike me, she is unable to abandon her original expectations and thus can’t begin to choose between teaching positions that will leave her unemployed for the month of May or September, depending on where she’s placed, and begins to lash out at Sanjib for misleading her. I cringe as she tries to repress her tears, disparages the country and Indian men in particular for not listening to her, and then she storms out of Sanjib’s office. I mitigate the impasse by trying to explain to both people how they might have misunderstood the other. I agree with Sanjib that Erin is in no condition to decide anything at the moment. But I also gently remind him that the information on the company’s website is misleading if two of us have misinterpreted it. “Erin just has to accept her new circumstances,” I tell him “but none of us should be preoccupied with job prospects when we should be concentrating on the class.” Sanjib listens to me with a face that is impassive and non-committal and I wonder: can he empathize with Erin’s situation or does he think all of us are being picky, petulant children? But I agree to communicate Sanjib’s message to Erin which is essentially: he’s not trying to push her into a job or get rid of her. And he’s sincere in his offer to help her find a job that suits her needs.

During our ride back to the Hiland Park apartments, Erin’s roommate Emma offers to treat her to ice cream at the Big Bizaar. As we walk to the food court area on the second floor, we agree that Sanjib needs to work on his salesmanship. Erin really needs an apology from him for the miscommunication but I tell that she’s unlikely to get one. More importantly, I remind her that she needs to abandon her original expectations because they’re not going to be fulfilled. But “it’s only the second day of class,” I say. “Sanjib isn’t trying to force you into anything and there will be other options in the next three weeks.” She listens to this and responds: “I don’t believe that and I don’t trust him.” The only thing I don’t tell her is perhaps the most important message about how to deal with future adversity: she must change her negative, confrontational attitude or she’ll continue to suffer needlessly while continuing to alienate those around her. And, on this point, I do speak from experience.

As we talk Emma reminds us of something she heard her other roommate Christina say about her encounters with the higher ups at TEFL International: “Do you ever get the idea that you’re not being listened to at all?” I’ve had that feeling, too. But I remain silent, deciding that it’s unfair to judge based on a couple encounters with Sanjib. Instead I offer this: “I haven’t been here long enough to know one way or the other. But my guess is that I’m simply ignorant of the country’s cultural code surrounding personal interactions.” I’ve learned this much, though: when Indians don’t want to say no, they bobble their heads ambiguously up and down and sideways which is usually a polite way of saying that you’ve asked the wrong question. Part of my Indian assimilation process will involve learning enough about the people here to know which questions are indeed permissible.

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